Viva Cuba! On to Annapolis...

It’s been a long while since my last blog post, for which I apologize - I try to get something online a couple of times a week, but between enjoying Havana during my last few days in Cuba, getting back to the US, fixing broken motor mounts (and fuel problems, and other assorted gremlins onboard), preparing for the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally and my regular writing, plus heading north to the Chesapeake Bay, I’ve fallen a bit behind. Let me fill you in....

Havana was, as it always is, amazing. Carlos, a friend from Spain, who cruised along the coast with me from Puerto de Vita, and I hired a classic old car to bring us from Gaviota Marina to Havana. First though we we visited a new friend whom I’d met in Gaviota - Paul, from Britain, who had married a Cuban woman and lived in San Antonio de los Banos, 35 km southwest of Cuba.

Paul and his wife lived in a lovely home they had purchased and that he had fixed up beautifully. This was most certainly a cut above - all right, several cuts above - your typical Cuban home. Along with a beautifully laid out garden and patio with tiki hut and wet bar, the interior of the house had been greatly improved. A second floor was added, it was fully air conditioned, and had a two car garage, although only a tiny Russian Lada lived in it. If you've never seen a Lada...

Like most expats living in Cuba, Paul and his wife had a maid and a groundsman, as well as a chauffeur. While that makes them sound amazingly wealthy, their staff probably did not cost them as much as $500 a month. In fact, it likely costs them considerably less, as official wages are very low in Cuba - $25 - $45 per month.

This town is not one that is visited by many tourists, which is a shame, as it’s a wonderful exposure to how many Cubans actually live. The downtown is busy, with many small shops and street merchants. Homes are small by our standards, but clean and neat inside, and generally well kept outside, even if not freshly painted, since paint is one of those products hard to come by in Cuba.

I was greatly entertained by one scene in the square by the church. Someone had a small business offering children rides on everything from small electric cars, to carts pulled by a goat, and was doing a big business. The kids were loving it, the parents had their phone cameras out, and if you let yourself forget about where you were, the scene was that of any small town in America. Cuba is not so different from the US as we imagine.

Street Mimes
the ultimate government employee!
Seriously, they are paid
by the government

Back to the classic car: this 53 Plymouth (not the beauty shown in the picture above), powered by a nearly new diesel engine, was not one of those beautifully restored classics you read about, but it got us there and that’s what mattered. The cost of the 115 mile trip was $120 one way, but had we been willing to look around further, we probably could have done better in both price and style.

Leaving Paul’s home after several days there, Paul’s chauffeur drove us to Havana, where we found a lovely casa particulara, which is analogous to our B&Bs, two bedrooms right downtown and up one floor, for $40.

From this convenient location, we explored Havana Viejo (Old Havana), wandering around the tourist district. We of course stopped by Hemingway’s haunts, wandered past the Museum of Chocolate, watched street mimes - basically did the tourist thing.

That evening we took in a music festival downtown on the Malecon, or waterfront. I was reminded vividly that I wasn’t in North America as police officers stopped and searched people at the gates as they entered. No one objected to this, or even seemed to think much of it. Of course, objecting would mean a trip to jail, and I’m told that a Cuban jail cell is something to be avoided.

As the festival ended, we chose to get a bici-taxi - a bike taxi - to bring us back downtown. While inexpensive in our terms, the $5 we paid the man was one quarter of what his official wages are monthly. He entertained us marvelously with stories of the places we passed. It was money well spent, the same as the earlier bici-taxi we’d hired earlier in the day.

Paul had explained to us that most Cubans, to survive comfortably, have to earn about $100 to $125 extra monthly over their government stipend. This explained the hustle that almost everyone was engaged in, with people selling everything you could imagine, from fruits and vegetables, to, in some cases, themselves. 
We saw several prostitutes and, obviously being tourists, were quite boldly propositioned several times during that evening.  A quick ‘no’, or simply ignoring the woman or pimp, usually settled the issue. I did chase away one woman who, in the stereotypical bright red dress, tried settling in at the table beside us at an otherwise nearly empty restaurant patio.

Our hosts at the casa particulara arranged transportation back to Varadero for us in a Peugeot, at a cost of $80. Frankly, and despite the dubious charms of the ancient Plymouth, the air conditioning and better ride of the smaller but newer car was quite welcome.

The day after arriving back at Gaviota Marina, I settled my bill for dockage (60¢ per foot per night) and prepared to leave. As always, I left with mixed feelings. 

I enjoy Cuba, but the endless bureaucracy one has to deal with as a cruising boater, and the struggle to make myself understood with my very poor Spanish, were a challenge that I needed a break from. Against that, the friendliness and charm of the Cubans you meet, the joys of this amazing culture, keeps you coming back for more.

That evening, I anchored well after dark, with no moon, at the Cay Sal Banks, a group of uninhabited cays belonging to the Bahamas. The cay was nowhere near where the chartplotter said it should be, which, when you can’t see a thing, is a bit unnerving. 

After sailing ‘through’ the island on the chartplotter and over a mile from my intended anchorage on the west side, I decided I would just drop the hook in 18 feet of water and worry about where the cay was in the morning. Turns out it was a quarter mile further still from where I was, and on the opposite side. 

It was worth the stop however, as it’s just gorgeous, crystal clear waters in which you can see the small tropical reef fish swimming about from your boat. The beach is lovely and wide, and the only concern I had was that the holding was marginal, with sand over coral rock. It would not be anyplace to be in bad weather, as there is no protection.
Leaving the Cay Sal Banks to head for Miami, I dragged a line from the back of the boat, thinking I might catch some supper. I had five big hits within fifteen minutes before a sizable tuna kept the hook, only to break the line right beside the boat. Damn!

As I got north of the Banks and turned to the east, I felt the Gulf Stream tug at Gypsy Wind as the GPS registered over 6 knots...we were finally heading home.

Cuba had been an adventure, but then, it always is.

p.s. For those who missed it, I hosted a Cruisers’ Hangout in Havana, an online webinar which you can view at https://youtu.be/4i79DoVQ74U
If you’re in Annapolis, I will be speaking on Cuba at the Annapolis Boat Show for Cruising World, and also in Fort Lauderdale and Miami at their respective shows, in November and February. Hope to see you at one of the shows, and please, if you do attend, come up and introduce yourself.

For those interested in cruising south with me in the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally, we still have one place available. You can get details on the Rally at www.ICWally.com, or contact me directly for information. This is going to be a great trip, with seminars, parties, and lots of fun, along with solid navigational guidance to make your ICW voyage a safe and comfortable one.

Join me for a Webinar on Cuba, FROM Cuba!

Hola! I’m back to civilization from the beautiful anchorages of the Jardin del Rei, the cays of the north central coast of Cuba. It’s been quite the trip, a lot has changed for cruisers traveling in Cuba - while a great deal has not changed at all. If I had to sum it all up, I’d say things are better, and in some ways easier, than in the past.

I met some fascinating folks on this trip, had some interesting adventures, and learned a great deal more about what makes Cuba tick.

I’m currently at the new marina in Varadero. It’s quite the place all on its own. Currently at 600 slips, it’s huge, and by the end of 2015, so marina manager Tonia tells me, it will be at 1000 slips, making it the largest marina in the Caribbean. And with perhaps a half dozen transient boats, the least occupied by far. In fact, my Spanish cruising buddy, Carlos, and I have the only two occupied boats in the marina.

My next stop will be Marina Hemingway, to see what’s new there, and to spend some time once again in Havana.
This is where it gets exciting - I’m going to conduct the world’s FIRST Cruisers’ “Hangout in Havana”, live from here in Cuba. This will be an hour long webinar conducted via Google Hangout.

During the Cruisers’ Hangout, I’ll be discussing what it’s like to cruise in Cuba, describe what’s changed, and talk about the changes in the status of American cruisers, and what we might expect in the future.

If the state of the local internet here in Cuba permits it, I’ll be showing video and photos of Cuba to give viewers a taste of what to expect, and at the end of the webinar, I’ll answer as many questions as I possibly can from viewers.

This webinar will be a preview to my seminar on Cuba at the Annapolis Boat Show later this fall, where I’ll be presenting on this topic for Cruising World. If you’re in Annapolis, you won’t want to miss this.

The Cruisers’ “Hangout in Havana” will be Monday night, August 3, at 7:30 eastern time, and will be an hour long, longer if the internet signal permits it. To sign up, click over to ...https://plus.google.com/events/c78b009eikt594h63jgsnsmkhe8

Hasta mañana.....see you in Havana!

Entering Puerto de Vita, Cuba

Wow! Finally, Cuba again. It seems like it’s taken forever to get here.....wait, it has taken forever, with one delay after another. 

The sail from Duncantown, in the Ragged Islands, was superb. The winds were as easterly as they get this time of year, about 95 - 100°. The heading for the initial 30 miles, to Cay Santo Domingo, a far out rocky outpost of the Bahamas, was 193°M, and from there to Puerto de Vita, 205°M, making the trip a beam reach. Winds were at 15, gusting a bit higher at times and the sea state was 6 - 8 feet and 5 seconds. Not  leisurely, but not too bad either.

I covered the 65.7 nm in under 13 hours, coming in after dark because I’d slept in. In my defense, I was sleeping on my good ear and didn’t hear the 05:30 alarm. Aduana is no help in these situations, she likes to sleep in, so she doesn’t bother waking me. 

I would have actually made better time had I left the day previous in 12 - 15 knots, as I would have sailed with main and genoa, rather than just genoa as I did. 

Being a singlehander, I make very conservative decisions, and this was one of them. I could have motorsailed, but I was unable to purchase diesel in Duncantown and didn’t want to risk running out.

Entering a harbour you’ve only been in once before after dark isn’t something I suggest to my students, but it was what I was left with. The inlet at Puerto de Vita is wide and very deep, with a 10 second white light to the south side. As long as I could get in behind the headland, taking in the genoa would be simple, and then it was simply a matter of motoring in using the well marked channel.

Hmmmm - what’s THAT on the starboard side? Green marker? What the hell?

The channel may be well marked, but the chart doesn’t position you accurately on it. I actually would have gone round the wrong side of 3 of the first 5 markers following the chartplotter. Naturally, the depthsounder chooses these precious few moments to start acting up. A curse followed by a quiet prayer....it’s back, wait, it’s gone, now back again....must be a loose ground.

I proceeded slowly in the dark, watching the chartplotter and muttering at the depthsounder until I was close to where I’d gone aground here six years ago. The only difference was that I was now at low tide; last time, it was dead high tide and it took the next higher high tide 24 hours later to get free.

Anchor down, this is good till morning. I tried to raise the Guarda Frontera (Coast Guard) on the radio but had no luck. I was good with that, it meant I wouldn’t have to move before daylight, and I could honestly say, if asked, that I’d tried.

The next morning, I proceeded to the marina where I was directed to stand off by the last red marker to wait for the doctor. Dr. Roland came out to the boat, pronounced me healthy and able to proceed, and we motored in to the dock.

In the last few years, the clearance procedures have changed. It used to be you had 8 to a dozen people aboard, and often a drug sniffing dog. This time, it was only two, plus the veterinarian for Aduana, with the Agriculture guy showing up two days later. The paperwork is much simpler also, and less of it. 

A valiant attempt to provide comprehensible English translations has been made - but, let me put it kindly, there is some room for improvement here. For example: “It is terminately forbidden to ships crews to dart wasted materials of vegetal origin....” That’s from the Ministery of Agriculture, Vegetal Sanity General Direction.

Still and all, it’s indicative of the changes happening in Cuba.

What hasn’t changed is their paranoia about portable electronics. My handheld GPS and VHF are now in a locker under seal. That will last until I leave here, when I can open the locker to use them and I doubt anyone will bother me about them again.

Interestingly enough, my Delorme Inreach Explorer satellite communicator didn’t bother them at all, even though it beeped with messages several times as we sat there. A sat phone however, that would also have been sealed.

Once the paperwork was finished, the usual short search of the boat was done. While I understand it’s required, it feels hugely intrusive and they focus on the most bizarre things. 

In this case, the dockmaster, Alexis, was looking at my last box of nasal spray, and wondered if it would be suitable for children. Clearly, he has a child with a problem and was looking to help his child. 

This is a constant problem in Cuba. They may have well trained doctors and nurses - but basics such as simple painkillers and other medicines are not available. Even splints - I’ve seen a splint made of a 2 x 4 and rags for a woman’s broken leg. 

I try to help a little where I can - I had just given Dr. Roland a bottle of painkillers, acetaminophen and codeine, which I buy OTC in Canada. But the nasal spray is adult strength, not suitable for Alexis’ child, and if he administers it wrongly, which he’s likely to do, he’ll do more harm than good.

I explain that this product is adult strength, and Alexis takes it in good grace. I wish I could have helped somehow. I may try to explain how saline rinses can also help, but I’m not sure his English is going to be up to that. My non-existent Spanish certainly isn’t. 

But, as in all things Cuban, we’ll figure it out together.

The search over, the two men depart. Now it’s time to go pay the piper. Entry to Cuba totals $70 CUC in all, or $79 US, and they’ll accept US dollars in payment. No es problemo.

Good news! They now have internet here. However, they are out of the cards authorizing access to the system and are not sure when they’ll get more. 

No surprise there. The surprise in Cuba is when you come across efficiency in the system, a rare occurrence. Cubans know their system is screwed up, so Mary, the office manager, apologized for the inconvenience.

Interestingly enough, I’d seen the Etecsa van (Etecsa is Cuba’s internet provider) drive in that morning...(update - Mary will drive those of us wanting Internet access to the resort 15 km away tomorrow morning to use the facilities there, as Etecsa still has not come up with cards - it’s been a month apparently).

While chatting, I was impressed with Mary’s flawless English and said so. She told me the tourism agency she works for also provided her with training in French. 

I spoke with her in French, and it too was excellent - probably better than mine, which is no surprise given her mother tongue is Spanish, a language with a lot of similarities.

This is typical of the marinas - other than the Guarda, those who deal closely with the boaters have very good language skills. With the Guarda, outside of a marina, you’re fortunate if they speak any English, but with good humour, we always get through.

Time for boat chores, starting with laundry. One of the staff will do my lavenderia, 10 kilos, for $12.50. Good deal, fresh clean bedding and clothes, salt free - just as I now am after a wonderfully long fresh water shower. After the paucity of water in the Bahamas, the sheer availability here inspires me to shower until I’m completely wrinkled.

The original plan this year had been to go to the south coast, but it’s now much too late in the year. The SE trades are ripping through here. The 150 nm to the eastern tip, Punta Maisi, which is east and southeast with no protection at all would be against those same winds and seas I just sailed through: 6 - 8 feet with a five second period. Gypsy Wind simply doesn’t have the kind of power to muscle through that, and I am not willing to suffer that kind of pain. Been there, done that - it wasn’t fun. 

I actually did consider Bruce Van Sant’s method of using night lees and katabatic winds to sneak east, but his first dictum is not to move in a gradient wind over 15 knots. That settles that. 

Also, the Cuban authorities would doubtless have issues with a foreign boat running along their coast in that manner at night. Since they must clear you when you leave an anchorage, returning your despacho so you can proceed, it would mean having the Guarda row out to the anchorage at midnight. I’m not seeing that as a viable plan.

As well, my recent bout with being ill in the Bahamas has me eager to get back to the land of instant colonoscopies and informed diagnoses. None of this waving a pH stick in a cup of piss as the nurse practitioner did in the Bahamas. 

I’m feeling fine now, but I want some guy in a white coat and stethoscope, with a bunch of degrees and a pricey Mercedes, to look at me and tell me with complete assurance that I’m just fine. (See the receptionist on your way out please!)

So Aduana and I will work our way west, along the north coast, to Havana, exploring and photographing as we go. I have a much better camera with me this trip, and the results will be evident in the eventual video I’ll produce, highlighting the beauty of this amazing country and the great sailing, fabulous culture, fascinating town and cityscapes, and friendly, happy people.

Vaminos!

Whooops! Well.....

anchored out in the Jumentos....

When last we left our intrepid sailor - oh, wait, that’s another blog!
My last post here a week ago, the plan was to leave the following day and then post to you - from Cuba.Things didn’t turn out that way, and I’m still in George Town, Bahamas. I’d tell you I’m now leaving tomorrow, but a) who would believe me now, and b) I don’t want to jinx myself.
The morning following that post, about 4 am, I woke up with what we can considerately call an unpleasant gastro-intestinal feeling. I’m going to avoid details for the squeamish and faint of heart, and myself, because it isn’t much fun to recall.
A word to the wise here unless you’re into scaring yourself silly: never google pain symptoms at 4:30 am. First of all, my symptoms could have been for any one of over 50 ailments, including appendicitis or kidney stones. All fatal.
By 5, I had convinced myself that seeing a doctor was the smart thing to do, since those two - appendicitis and kidney stones - are illnesses you don’t want to get in a place like the Jumentos, well south of the Exumas, or crossing over to Cuba. Heck, I wasn’t going anywhere feeling like I was, much less away from civilization - and medical care, such as it is here in George Town.
Seeing the doc on a small island doesn’t always mean you get to see the doctor. Typically, you get to see the nurse practitioner.
Nurse practitioners, in my experience, don’t leave me with a lot of confidence. I’m the sort of person who likes answers because then I can work on solutions. Give me a ‘fuzzy’ response and I’ll try to nail it down with questions. Great if you’re a journalist working on a story, but if you’re a patient trying to determine your life expectancy...
Naturally, if all the nurse has to work with is a few ounces of urine and your description of how you feel, you don’t get a lot of answers. The decision to sit tight for a few days while this sorted itself out was now final. No way was I going out and taking any chances.
I thought that this might offer an opportunity to catch up on some writing, but that wasn’t happening. The prescription I had against infections was knocking me out - I was napping mornings and afternoons for hours at a time. Thankfully, I had turned down the painkillers (prescription, not recreational) or I’d still be asleep.

On the serious side, when you’re cruising in areas off the beaten path, medical considerations have to be thought out in advance. To that end, I carry a fairly comprehensive first aid kit, the Marine Series 400 by Adventure Medical Kits. It’s good for wounds and breaks, has some basic meds, and is intended to support a victim while you transport to proper care.
However, there’s a lot more that can happen to you out there than just stepping on a spiny urchin - or sitting on one. Let me digress a moment with a story - a close friend who is a dive instructor told me one of his most pleasurable work days occurred when a 19 or 20-something hottie in a much too small bikini sat on a spiny urchin (how???) and required removal of the spines, said job falling to him as the senior instructor, there being no other trained medical staff on the island. Apparently it was slow, but very pleasant, work. End of digression.
A proper first aid kit should carry a variety of easily purchased medications, against some of the ailments we suffer. For the various GI problems and even simple upsets, you should have Tums or similar, an anti-diarreahal (yes it’s spelled correctly!), and a laxative on board. Basic stuff, yes, but they can turn the tide, if you’ll forgive the horrific pun, in a bad situation.
Some basic painkillers are also mandatory. I have both ASA and Acetaminophen with 15 mg Codeine, a product I can purchase OTC in Canada. They’ve stemmed some severe toothache pain over the years and I don’t travel without them.
In this instance, they were both a bad choice against the headache the antibiotic was giving me, because Codeine plugs you up, same as morphine. Fortunately, I had some straight Tylenol with me, and purchased some ASA for stores.
Along with these, you should carry some sort of easily purchased topical painkiller. These are usually sold as part of an antibiotic creme - which of course you should also have available.
I could go on for quite a while - and quite possibly should, because not everyone pays adequate attention to this topic. I feel an article in the works here...

Let me finish on this note: if you’re going cruising - and even if you aren’t - take a good first aid course, and CPR along with it. Any sailing school will be glad to set up the appropriate courses for you. CPR is not hard to learn, and can be a lifesaver. First aid can be used anywhere, at anytime, not just on your boat.
The instructors will be teaching from the foundation of injuries derived during water based activities, which is what you want. Bottom line is, there’s no point in having lots of bandages if you don’t know how to keep the victim alive long enough to use them.

 p.s. yes, I’m now feeling much better, thanks. Good to go, even! And, the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally is very close to being full. If you're considering joining us, don't hesitate too long, you'll miss out. For more details on this exciting event, running Oct. 20 to Dec. 15 from Deltaville VA to Miama FL, check our website, ICWally.com

Cuba - you got questions? We've got answers...

I received an email today from a friend about what's needed to cruise in Cuba, and it inspired the following blog post...which will be the last blog post here until I reach Cuba in a few days. You can follow my progress along the Cuban coast at Where's Wally?
I'll be posting regular short updates via my Delorme Inreach satellite tracker to my Facebook page about Cuba until I reach someplace where I can get back on the internet.
Here's what my friend Carlos had to ask about cruising in Cuba...

Hi Wally,

 My imagination has been “running” at high speed with this discussion of ours on Cuba.  I saw your video (sailing to Havana) last night on You Tube.  I hear that there are less than 100 usable slips in Hemingway Marina.   Most of the slips are in dis-repair..no water..no power per the websites I saw.  100 Slips isn’t that many for the Miami Crowd.  Over 60,000 boats in Florida….any decent 20 footer could make the trip on a nice day….Aside from Havana where should one go?   Varadero?

1)      Does my Raymarine GPS/Chartplotter need more charts?  Where can I buy charts for Cuba here in FTL?  How about a Cuban FLAG?

2)      Do I need a SSB Radio to do this trip? Or VHF sufficient.  In some countries only SSB is permissible.

3)      I don’t have a Mariner’s or Captain’s license…like most American boaters..is this an issue?

4)      Insurance—not sure if US Boat will cover me there.  Will need to check.  If not,  I hear that a Canadian and a German company sell insurance for Cuban waters.

5)      Medical Insurance for me and my crew.

6)      Harmony is in top condition—all maintenance has been done.  I did remove the Staysail—but we should be ok with the furling genoa and the main.   I don’t have any spare sails.    I wonder what spare parts for the engine I should bring?  Water pumps, belts, starter…..I wonder what would be a prudent “spare set.”  I can’t predict everything…what should I have on board?    I’ll top off with fuel and bring plenty of gas for the dinghy before going.  50 gallons of diesel should be more than enough…and 5 gallons for the dinghy.

7)      Are their pump outs at the marinas in Cuba…probably not but should not dump except way offshore…

8)      I read a lot about provisioning—How long will we be in Cuban waters?   A week?  10 days?  I hear fish, chicken, pork and veggies are easy to get….I would bring “other stuff”…canned stuff, booze, things for “trading” everyone suggests.   If the trip is for 10 days—I’ll provision for 20+ days. Just in case of bad weather..or the winds keep us from departing on time, etc.   Its not a long passage---the water supply on board 60 gallons is ample.   Good suggestion to bring some clean  “Jerry Cans” to bring water back in the dinghy if water isn’t available dockside.     

9)      Security—I hear that you really can’t leave your boat unattended. Security at the Marinas is a “joke”….what has been your experience?   Can we leave the boat locked up—and go into Town?  Taxi’s available?

10)   US Credit Cards are now usable in Cuba….but how much cash should we bring?

 My sister was just in Cuba and really enjoyed the music and food….She said that there are many “inconveniences” but nothing major.  If we’re staying aboard Harmony, we’ll be very comfortable…especially if we have power and water at the dock.  

All of these topics seem obvious to someone with your vast experience—but would be useful information for a novice like me to have before leaving. 

Here are my answers to Carlos...

For charts and a flag, contact Bluewater charts and books in Lauderdale. 

VHF is sufficient, especially along the north coast. SSB is always nice, but not needed.

No license, Captain or otherwise required, to cruise in Cuba

No US firm will cover your boat at this point. Lloyds of London is one option. This may change if you are traveling legally with a license for your boat - and since the situation is changing so rapidly, you need to check with your insurer on this before leaving.

You purchase medical insurance in Cuba, approximately $3.25/day/person US. Mandatory for all but Canadians, whose health insurance covers them while in Cuba.

Spares - the usual. Fan belt, impeller, filters. Fuel and water are easily had in Cuba, and are of good quality. 

No pumpouts. Best to void the tank at sea, yes. 

You have the right idea about provisioning. Also, bring adequate toilet paper, it's $3.50 a roll IF you can find it.

Security is good at the marinas, but I would lock up in Hemingway all the same, it's more open than most other marinas. Be more worried about other boaters, not the Cubans. It's against the law for a Cuban to board your boat, other than the officials, and they don't. Taxis, no problem.

Despite what some so called 'knowledgeable' people are telling you, US credit cards do NOT work in Cuba, not yet anyhow. Bring cash. Bring cash anyway, because ATMs are not that easy to find and often do not work. Mini-rant to follow...
(I really hate watching someone at a boat show give wrong information, especially when those in attendance paid $100 per head to listen, and I give the correct information for free. If you put on the show, at least have the courtesy to hire someone who knows what they are talking about - and yes, that means you, Trawlerfest and Passagemaker. We had this discussion last spring and you didn't like it, especially when the next day, the Wall Street Journal backed me up on this. Then your speaker got her information on bringing a dog into Cuba wrong also. Not impressed at all). End of mini-rant.

No, there are not a lot of usable slips at Hemingway, but the marina is slated for improvements, or so the rumour on the Malecon goes - but those in use do have water and power. However, power may only be 30 amps. Not sure about 50 or 100. The dockmaster will have an electrician set things up for you on arrival. The electrical setup is not as scary as it looks - or perhaps it is, I'm no electrician.

Varadero is nice, although I've not yet seen the new marina there, which is way outside of town. The old marina, Darsena, is nice but dated. It's also close to town, making it very convenient. 

That's it for this blog post folks. I have to get the boat ready for sea, and pick up some last minute items - not TP, got lots! Mas tardes, amigos y amigas!

Two cases wine, one case dog food, one case toilet paper...CHECK!

Huh? What's Moran babbling about now? 

Well, for those who've not gone to Cuba, the above is part of my provisioning list for the trip, because none of those three items is easily found in Cuba. Dog food, in fact, is not available at all to my knowledge and Aduana, the WonderPup®, would not be a happy gal if we ran out of kibble somewhere around Cienfuegos. 

The last time I saw TP for sale in Cuba, it was at Marina Hemingway, at $3.50 US a roll. That's some expensive sh$%t there! (sorry, I HAD to use that line...regular readers of my Sailing and Cruising Facebook group, known for top notch sailing advice and epic TP threads, will appreciate it).

TP - $3.50 a roll in Hemingway

So what else do you bring along to Cuba? Good question. 

Money, for one thing, since American credit and debit cards don't work. I know, you've been told all that has changed. Well, don't believe everything you read - cruising friends just returned from Cuba have advised me that what you're reading in the news - and hearing at some boat show seminars in fact from so-called knowledgeable people - is incorrect, despite the hype. Bring cash. Yanqui dollars work just fine, change them to pesos at the bank. American credit and debit cards do not yet work.

You'll also want to bring along things such as condiments, spices, soda...in fact, anything that isn't a staple, and a few things we think of as staples. Beef? Hard freeze your favourite steaks, because you're not likely to find beef. Same with hamburger. 

Dinner being delivered - fresh and fast!

Pork is easier, chicken (pollo) is easy, and local fisherman will bring fish (pesca) and lobster (langosta) to your boat at anchor to trade for t-shirts, old snorkeling gear and so on. They won't sell it for cash usually, because they have nothing to spend that cash on. There are no Walmarts in Cuba...damn few grocery stores either, at least as we understand them.

Vegetables aren't a problem either, just check out the local farmer's markets in the nearest town. The selection will be fresh and grown without fertilizers or pesticides - you'll appreciate the difference in taste from North American grown veggies.

Fresh from the owner's own garden....

So what else do you need? 

You should already have on board spares for the mechanical items that usually give trouble: fan belt, impeller, oil filters, fuel filters and so on. These will be difficult, or impossible, to get in Cuba. And you can't just call out to have one shipped in either.

One friend, a Canadian, had the water pump go on his trawler while in Moro, at the west end of Cuba. It took three weeks to get one in. First, he had to order it from the US, via his satphone. It then had to be re-ordered out of Canada, shipped via DHL through Europe, it somehow at one point ended up in Africa (no, I don't know how or why), finally landing in Havana. It took a $350 car rental for the 300 mile round trip, half a day spent screwing around at the airport to get it cleared through customs, and a healthy 'tip' for the customs agent.

Imagine how stupid you would feel doing all of that for a $20 impeller.

I'm making Cuba sound very difficult, but in reality, it isn't. You do have to have a very different mindset however, to enjoy a Cuban cruise. Otherwise, it can frustrate you beyond belief.

In Hemingway, when you are ready to plug in, the dockmaster will have an electrician set up the pedestal for you, as in rewire it. 

Guarda officer being rowed out to my boat...

You have to clear in, and out, of every stop, with two Guarda Frontera officers boarding your boat for the paperwork and cursory search of your boat. Learn to enjoy it. They don't want to do it either, and they're respectful and pleasant about the job. Everything takes longer, is more difficult. Sometimes things are done on the sly, because that’s the only way they CAN be done due to bureaucracy and rules. Cubans are masters at McGyvering things - witness those old Chevs and Fords running on Russian tractor diesels. 

And through it all, the Cubans just keep smiling, being their wonderfully friendly selves.

Nothing is the same, in other words, and that alone is reason to cruise Cuba, before the developers and marina builders get their mitts into Cuba, and turn it into Fort Lauderdale south. Already, they're talking about a $150 million redevelopment of Hemingway, funded by the Chinese, and building something upwards of a dozen marinas, with golf courses, on the north coast. You’ll hardly know you’ve even left the US in these places.

I won't give my opinion on this idiocy, but those who read me regularly know what I think of this 'pave paradise, put up a parking lot' mentality. This isn’t what cruising is all about. If that’s what you want, stay at a marina in Miami - you’ll hear more Spanish spoken there anyhow.

The next post you see will be sent via my Delorme Inreach tracker, and you can follow my progress at Where's Wally? As I cruise the south coast of Cuba, I'll try to answer your questions, but bear in mind, net access can be a challenge there.

A quick reminder for those interested in cruising the ICW with my rally group this fall, Sail to the Sun ICW Rally.  It's going to be a great time and space is filling very fast - we're already 50% full in only five days, so if you're interested, don't hesitate! This is going to be an even better time than last year's rally.

Mas tardes, amigos y amigas. See you in Cuba! Vaminos!

Sail to the Sun ICW Rally

We have liftoff! Oh my gosh, do we have liftoff, the space shuttles should do as well.
Just a few days ago I announced that I would be hosting the "Sail to the Sun ICW Rally" this fall, and the response has been astounding. We had people signing up within hours of the announcement, not wanting to miss out on their spot in what will be the best and most enjoyable ICW rally of them all. And last year's was pretty darn good, so that says a lot. We had a great time, as you can see from comments on my website, ICWally.
I want to thank, before I go any further, the folks who were on the original ICW rally with me last year, for all of your best wishes on this venture. All of you are aware of how difficult this decision has been for me, and it was with your encouragement - and because of your encouragement and support - that I decided to launch this new rally. Your hope that others could experience the joys of a trip south on the ICW, such as we had together, has very much inspired me.

So just what will this rally offer to its members? First of all, safety. While the ICW is in and of itself a very safe route to travel, it has its challenges. There is constant shoaling, strong currents, and some confusing inlets to pass through. After 25 transits, I'm aware of all of these and well able to assist new cruisers through them safely.
On top of that, we'll have even more navigational assistance from some of the most knowledgeable people around on the ICW - the staff at our sponsor, Waterway Guide. They will be monitoring the situation ahead of us on a daily basis, letting us know of any new and unexpected problems that might crop up.
Then - there's comfort. Part of being comfortable on a trip such as this is knowing you're being well taken care of. To that end, our itinerary is planned so that no day is too long, or too challenging for even the newest cruiser. Our anchorages are chosen so that they are protected, and with good holding. Marinas are chosen for their convenience to cruisers, and for their amenities.
This, by the way, will be Waterway Guide's doing, as they have over 60 years experience dealing with the marinas on the ICW. They know the route, they know the people, and they'll be taking good care of all of us. And, you can expect some amazing deals for dockage too!
Then there's fun. People going south on the ICW are often a long way from family and friends and the life they used to have. The Sail to the Sun ICW Rally provides a ready made social group of fellow cruisers - people with similar goals and dreams, adventurous souls like you heading out on your cruising dream.
Sailing and traveling together, you'll get to know one another better than even your closest friends back home, as you share gorgeous sunsets, beautiful sailing days, helping one another into the dock, sharing a libation at sundown, potlucks on the beach...

These are people who will become your friends for life...people you'll look forward to seeing in your next anchorage, sharing still more good times with. In the end, that's what cruising is all about - lots of great sunsets, and wonderful new friends.

If you want more information on the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally, contact me via ICW.Wally@gmail.com, or check out my website at ICWally.com and request a brochure while you are there.
I look forward to getting to know you on our way south this fall.

Sail to the Sun this Winter with ICWally.com

I am extremely pleased, and very, very proud, to announce the 2015 Sail to the Sun ICW Rally. This will be an amazing event, and I hope you will join in with us, or follow us online if you're not ready yet to head south.

Last year, as many of you already know, I led the hugely successful ICW Snowbird Rally. Eighteen boats, seven dogs, three kids and a whole bunch of fun people headed south from Hampton VA, ending up in Miami FL seven weeks later. We had a great time.
This time around, we're going to do it even better.
This year's Sail to the Sun Rally will start a little sooner, so we can avoid some of the cold weather we experienced last year. That polar vortex chasing us south was cold!
At the Annapolis Boat Show, there will be a meet and greet for dinner and drinks at a local restaurant close by the show. A group of us did this last year and as those who were there can tell you, it was a great time.
The kickoff to the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally will be in Deltaville VA, one day's short sail out of Hampton VA. While there, the publisher of Waterway Guides, Jeff Jones, will host a reception and seminar, with time spent learning about the ICW from professionals and veterans of the route, and getting to know our fellow rally participants. This will be a very special event, I can tell you now, with lots of great people and information.
Then we head for Norfolk and the Dismal Swamp, the first stops on our way south, all the way to Miami.
There are some fun events planned already, and more in the works. Right out of the Albermarle, a lovely dinner and evening's entertainment, will be hosted by River Dunes Marina in NC.  This marina has been named one of the top 25 marinas in North America - here's the article for you!
While at River Dunes, we'll be able to visit Oriental NC, a popular spot on the ICW - without having to fight the boater traffic and marina congestion that is typical of this time of year, especially in a small harbour such as Oriental.

And that's just one of the events you'll enjoy on your way south. In later posts, I'll fill you in on even more of the great events we have planned for you. There will be quite a few.
There will also be evenings out for dinner at various stops along the way, potlucks on shore, and evenings shared with your new friends on board one another's boats.
Our major sponsor, Waterway Guides, will be providing an amazing swag bag for all participants - I won't tell you what will be in it, but it alone is worth the price of admission to this rally.
They've got a few other goodies lined up too, but I'm not going to spoil the surprise just yet. And I've got a couple of rabbits I plan to pull out of a hat for the group also. Stay tuned.
There will be significant discounts on dockage for rally members, and 10% or better savings on fuel costs at marinas on your trip south. That adds up to a lot of money you can save to spend on rum and fun in the islands.
Most importantly, you'll be getting professional advice and guidance on how to transit the ICW safely, comfortably and enjoyably. That means regular briefings on the more difficult areas and how to safely transit them, as well as on the spot guidance via VHF, text and celphone.
Our goal is not only to get you south safely and comfortably, but to help you learn what the cruising lifestyle is all about. If you need help, you'll get help, whether it's in figuring out how to provision, or setting an anchor, or docking practice. When we get the opportunity, further south, we'll do an offshore day to give you a taste of it in a group with others, so that when you are ready to head offshore, it won't all be a surprise to you.
Best of all, you'll be in the company of new and wonderful cruising friends, people whom you will keep in touch with for years to come, cruise with, share adventures with...

Dismal Swamp Canal

at the Palace Saloon, Fernandina Beach, FL

It just doesn't get better than this. For more information - AND a free ebook on ICW Tips and Techniques as well, go to ICWally.com. That's right - IC Wally. And don't forget to follow Aduana and I on our Delorme Satellite Tracker as we head off to Cuba, at Where's Wally?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
p.s. I'd especially like to welcome Steve and Barb Kurtzman, and Dave Pollock and Brenda Libby, who sailed with me on the 2014 Rally, to the 2015 Sail to the Sun Rally.
Thanks guys, for your trust and faith in joining up with me again for another great adventure. That's very special to me.

Awards Ceremony, Coconut Grove, Miami

Akula, on the Pungo River

Next Up - CUBA!

Weather permitting that is! The last few days in George Town Bahamas have been miserable, and so I've been stuck here waiting out squalls, thunderstorms and general mayhem out of the sky.
The predictions, however, have been much worse. Worse still, none of them agree with one another, and I check several on a daily basis: Passageweather, Windfinder, Predict Wind, even Chris Parker!

Ok, I know some of you are saying - Moran, that cheapskate sailor? (I know, that's redundant.) He has a subscription to Parker? When hell freezes over!

Relax, ol' Beelzebub ain't buying iceskates just yet - but I'm going to tell you a not well known fact here. You can listen to Chris' broadcast online, for free, at this site here.  Here is Chris' website, and here is the broadcast schedule along with other relevant information on Chris' services. Just another friendly tip from LiveBloggin'...

The plan now is to start into the Jumentos early next week, continue on to Ragged Island at the bottom, have a visit with Percy Wilson,

who owns the pub there with the DC-3 on top of it, then head over.
The last time I chatted with Percy, he was attempting to salvage a wooden boat that started to sink while transporting 114 Haitian refugees.
Imagine crossing that piece of ocean in THIS boat you see behind Percy. It's about 40 feet, no engine, no head, no deck of any sort. 

The closeup of the interior says 'desperation' in a way that nothing else can.

Leaving Ragged Island, it's a 62 nm trip across to Puerto de Vita, where I'll meet up again with marina manager Tina. She is a former schoolteacher, and began working for the marina because it is much better money due to the tips they receive from boaters.
Tina has been a huge help to the many boaters who have come through Vita, with tips, hints and suggestions.
From there, it's 130 miles east to the cape, then around to the south coast. Let the adventure begin....uh, after this rain and contrary winds all quit that is.

Stay tuned to LiveBloggin' and Sailfeed, as I'll be posting regularly from Cuba using my Delorme Tracker. You can also follow the adventure via Facebook, at Sailing and Cruising, where I'll be making short regular posts on what's happening.
And, don't forget that you can follow my progress here on LiveBloggin' with the 'Where's Wally' feature, this is the link - and yes, the link is now working properly for those who had a problem previously.
For those contemplating their first trip south, or their next one - or for those wanting to relive the memories or assist new cruisers - I've started a new Sailing and Cruising Facebook page, Sailing and Cruising: ICW
This page will feature lots of great tips, techniques and information to make your ICW cruise - the first one or the next one - easier, safer and more fun. After 25 trips on the ICW, I have a few ideas to share, and so will others.
It will also provide snowbirds with an opportunity to make friends before heading out, to join up and socialize with other cruisers heading south, and, in essence, create a sense of community for all. It is already fulfilling those goals as people get to know of others heading south and plans are already being made.
Keep in mind also, if you are heading south and need advice or assistance, you can contact me via the 'Contact' form on this page - the one that keeps pushing up into your view from the bottom right - or you can contact me via Facebook.
Look forward to hearing from you, and also to welcoming you to Sailing and Cruising: ICW.

Heading East from Bimini, and a New Crewmember

It's hard not to love these islands. Coming from the dirty brown water of the US east coast, your boat is suddenly immersed in a clear turquoise liquid. As you look down at starfish and other marine life, you just marvel at all that you've been missing on your journey south. The arrival alone is a suitable reward for all of your effort in coming south. 

This post will be mostly photos of this trip from Bimini to Georgetown - I'm not feeling particularly literate today, and no, rum was not involved!
Enjoy....

On my way across the Banks, I had a new crewmember come aboard - a lovely small bird who spent a considerable amount of time with us exploring the boat...then left after several hours. Great fun watching this little guy. Aduana was quite concerned at the intrusion, but settled down after a while.








No trip to the Bahamas is complete without a $26 hamburger from MacDuffs, on Norman Cay. Yes, you read that right - $26. Beer is only $7...both plus tax!

Yep! $26 for a burger...

View on the beach at Normans Cay - fortunately, it's free!

Sunset at Warderick Wells

Stopped at Exuma Land and Sea Park, otherwise known as Warderick Wells - beautiful here, very natural, what the Bahamas used to be before so much of it was paved over and turned into a parking lot...
















Next stop, Staniel Cay...Aduana was fascinated by the nurse sharks at the marina...there are over a dozen of them, attracted by people tossing food into the water around the dock. It's quite the attraction...

Let me leave you with a photo that, for me, expresses the real Bahamas, the Bahamas I came to find...this too was on Staniel Cay in front of the home of a local schoolteacher.

an Ode to Marine Manufacturers, or Fixing Stuff in Exotic Places, Redux

We all know the line, we even use it as a badge of honour amongst ourselves in recognition of our reality: We are not 'cruising', we are 'fixing stuff in exotic places'. Except that if you're like me, not technically competent, it's having stuff break - or breaking stuff in exotic places - and then traveling to still more exotic places till you find someone who can fix it.
That's not really what this lifestyle is supposed to be about....
A good friend who replaced his alternator with a pricey Balmar system was good enough to give me the two 80 amp Hitachis he was originally going to use for the upgrade when he was unable to sell them. One, he told me, needed new diodes, the other was fine. Better than fine, it was new, unused, in the box even!
So while sitting in Bimini waiting for a weather window, I decide to swap out my working just fine, 35 amp alternator for the larger one. What was I thinking? Cue in the violins now please....
First of all, I installed the 'new but not working one', thinking it was the good one. It didn't work. So, I installed the other one. It didn't work either, so I figured it was actually the broken one since it was in the older box.
That's logical, isn't it? I mean, they're both new, so go with the condition of the box it came in. I re-installed the first (non working) one, figuring I had missed something in the install.
There was a reason I nearly failed shop class in grade school, as you can imagine...
I read online that the unit needed to have the exciter wire installed correctly....that wasn't required on my old unit. So I spent hours searching out the information on the internet.
Now I'm not a totally inept doofus...ok, I am, but I've installed a windlass on this boat, as well as an engine, a new furler, I've built a sail from a kit...but if you've ever tried to install an alternator in anything but the four wheeled vehicle it was intended for, you're in uncharted waters, let me tell you. For starters, the manufacturers do NOT put proper labelling on the units. If you're not a trained 'alternator guru', you have to guess at which stud is the ground attachment for example. Or which terminal is the 'L' terminal and where does it attach to?
And since no two boats are the same, you then have to figure out the connections that are appropriate to your boat. All this while hoping that that red and white wire at the instrument panel in the cockpit is the red and white wire you see in the wiring harness in the engine room. And no, it wasn't, it was the yellow and green wire....that took some time to figure out too. (Aside - WHY WHY WHY do the manufacturers of multimeters use such stupidly short cords?)
Now all of this would be considerably easier if the manufacturers were to put some labeling on the units, or include a nice photo or two (the photo above is from a cruising website, NOT a manufacturer), and instructions - you know, like people who manufacture windlasses, or mainsail kits, or furlers - do. Marine manufacturers in other words.
Yes, I'm about to commit what to many of us is a horrific sin - I'm going to praise, with faint praise, the natural enemy of most boaters, the marine manufacturer. Hold tight....I know this is scary stuff.
These guys don't assume we're some kind of technical genius - they figure we're as dumb as dirt and they are right. They know us well! After all, we own boats, how bright can we be?
They very kindly don't say that, or even give a hint that they know how dumb we must be, they just put together directions that a complete doofus, such as myself, can follow to get the job done. That's smart on their part. (Special thanks here to Matt and Jeff at Sailrite, and also Scott and Scott at Selden, you guys rock!)
Seriously - a windlass installation (see Installing a new windlass, SAIL Magazine) is a complex job, involving some serious wiring to several components, numerous connections and a fair bit of ingenuity to complete. Compared to installing an alternator - two, perhaps three wires and three bolts - it's like flying a 767 compared to flying a kite.
Yet I had a far simpler time installing the windlass, with a great deal less trouble - all because the instructions were complete, detailed and well thought out. Thanks to the guys at Quick for their fine directions and superb customer service...
The sum total of instructions for the alternator? There were None. At. All. And the diagram of the unit was wrong in any event. And the right info about the exciter wire? Ahhh.....don't ask, heck, it wasn't even labeled on the unit. Honestly, I now understand why car repairs are so fraught with problems.

My opening query - the thread ran to over 120 posts

So I turned to the internet, particularly my friends on the Sailing and Cruising group on Facebook. This, it turns out, was the right move, as there is a considerable amount of expertise in the group and a huge willingness to help. Although it took a while to ferret out the problems, the suggestions, diagrams and questions about what was happening with this job kept me moving in the right direction until finally, I established that the alternator I was attempting to install was, indeed, the faulty one.
About this time almost to the minute, my benefactor came online and told me which one was bad.....wouldn't you know it?
Out came the other unit again and, since all the other potential problems - ground wire, exciter wire, connection to the instrument panel, etc. - had been corrected while 'fixing' the faulty one, it was just a matter of three bolts, three wires and start 'er up.
The exciter wire, now properly connected, fired off the idiot light and warning buzzer, then stopped as the power came up. The voltmeter immediately shot to 13.4 from 12.3, telling me that all was good in Electronville. So good in fact, I popped a couple of warm brews into the fridge to turn them into ice cold ambrosia as a reward for all my hard work.
So the next time you are struggling with an impossible install or repair - remember, it could be worse. Or cost more. Or, more likely, both! Don't struggle on your own - join an online community of sailors and share the misery with them. It may not make the job go faster, but it'll be much more fun!

At anchor in Bimini....

Local hunting conch in Bimini...

At anchor here in Bimini, after an uneventful crossing. The arrival, now that had some drama!
About seven miles out, I decided to put in the North Bahamas chart chip so that, you know, I would be able to see the channel clearly and enter without any problems.
Now where did I put that silly little chip? It's always in the nav table. Always - well, except for now, when I need it. Seems that when I sold the old chartplotter, I left that chip in it. Darn. Someone got a deal there.
Fortunately, I've got my paper charts...
In any event, the entry to Bimini is very easy and well marked, especially now that the casino is here - can't be having the guests roll the dice before getting to the tables, can we?
How many of you remember the range markers - a couple of stakes - we used to use to get into Bimini - line them up, turn left about 20 yards off the beach, and follow the pretty blue colour into the harbour. I honestly wonder how many of the boaters I see here now could actually manage that?
Fast forward to about 500 yards from the channel markers....and the sound of the exhaust changes. What's this? No water from the exhaust? Not good, especially this close to shore. Turn the boat around and head back out towards sea...
Duck below to check out the engine and whew! - it's just a hose clamp at the top of the engine that's broken, the hose coming loose. Easy fix. Stick it back on, and run the engine slowly to keep the pressure down so it's not blown off again. Being so close in, I didn't want to take the time, unless forced, to find and install a new hose clamp if this would work.
And why didn't I just raise the sails? Love the concept, but there was no wind at all to use the 'emergency white things'...
That changed real quickly the next day though. The winds went into the east, the direction I'm heading in, and are anywhere from 10 - 20 knots...which makes for a miserable ride across the Bahama Banks in a slow sailboat. The waves are small, perhaps two feet, but short. Think Albermarle Sound here. Worse still, they will be staying out of the east until sometime next week and I won't be able to leave here.
Gee...that's tough.
So...what's changed in Bimini? The north end of the island has been developed with a resort and casino - lots of pretty pink houses, to quote Mellencamp, and they are doing the best they can to 'pave paradise' here, to quote Joni Mitchell. Don't you just love progress?
However, the rest of Bimini is doing fine. Sherry is still serving her great conch fritters on the beach, and her Goombay Smash is still pretty darn potent. Captain Pat at Seacrest is still as congenial as ever. Captain Bob's has new owners, and the menu prices are badly out of date, with a $10 meal ending up at $17. Eleanor is still Eleanor, hard at work in her shop.
My Three Daughters still has the best conch fritters in Bailey Town, and really fabulous conch burgers - at $5 for the fritters, and $6 for the burger. No kidding - someone should tell them progress is happening and they need to jack up their prices and drop their quality to keep up - ok, sarcasm meter just pinged the limit there. Oh, did I mention they have homemade ice cream for $5 a bowl? Yummmm.
I come to the islands to experience a different lifestyle than what I find on the mainland. Why people call it progress to transplant what you can already experience there is beyond me.
At this resort, they actually ship in crates of shells to build walkways and gardens, bring in palm trees - I'm serious - and build sand beaches on the harbour side when there is a beautiful sand beach just 200 yards away on the Atlantic side.
Except, no one goes to that beautiful beach, and it's empty even at sundown. These people are all hanging out at the infinity pool, telling one another how great it is in the Bahamas.
Fact is, they could be at any resort in any tropical area and it would be exactly the same. These people will tell their friends they have been to the Bahamas and I suppose that's true, but it's not accurate.
They may be traveling, but they aren't exploring, aren't discovering the real world, and they wouldn't understand what we do as cruisers, because they wouldn't be willing to put in the effort it takes to cruise.
They miss so much, and they haven't the slightest idea that they do. They may be living the good life, but it sure isn't the best life.
In any event, I'm happy to report that the sun still shines, the beach is still free and the water is warm. Life is very good. Now if only I could get 24 hours of anything but an easterly wind and get moving on to Chub Cay and then the Exumas.
Gotta run folks - there's a sunset awaiting on the Atlantic side that needs my rapt attention.
(Remember, you can find my location by following the 'Where's Wally Now' link here on LiveBloggin', at "Where's Wally?")

Cuba Bound!

A quick post, as I'm getting the boat ready for travel...

At last - the stars have aligned and it's off to Bimini after far, far too long in Miami. From Bimini, it's then over to Chub Key - or possibly Andros and then over to the Exumas. I'll be avoiding Nassau like the plague - far too many murders there recently, including several on boats (see story here). Besides, why go to an island paradise and spend time in a city? I want beaches, sun, sand and rum!
From there, it will be on to the Exumas. This trip, I want to visit the northern Exumas, I've missed them in past years. Some lazy cruising down the islands follows, with a stop at Staniel and other popular spots to revisit some past haunts. Maybe drink some rum, chase lobsters and find the best conch fritters in the world. That sounds about right...
Of course, Georgetown comes next - it'll be quiet at this time of year with most of the winter transients having returned north, or moved on further south into the Caribbean.
Lots of room at the Chat and Chill for a cold brew in other words, and less crowding at the market when de mail boat comes in!  Maybe take in a rake and scrape....Ya mon, we be limin' dere, goin' wit' island time.
Talking about the market, sad news that the Georgetown straw market burned down - I'm sure the folks who traded there will rebuild and I'll certainly let everyone know what I find out in a forthcoming post.
Following Georgetown, it's Salt Pond on Long Island. The resort there, Long Island Breezes, has apparently closed, which is unfortunate - it was a great spot to hang out. I'll reprovision from the anchorage in Long Island, since there are two stores and prices are considerably less than in G-town.
Next, it's on to the Jumentos, which with the advent of the Explorer Charts for that area are much easier to transit. The bottom end of that chain brings us to Ragged Island, and this trip, I'll probably take a day or two to explore there. My last trip, the weather was just right for crossing to Cuba, so I was gone the next morning barely 12 hours after I'd arrived. Ragged Island has the bar with the airplane on (or is it 'in') the roof. Met the owner my last trip, so it'll be fun to reconnect.
Sixty-five miles from Ragged Island and up comes Puerto de Vita, Cuba's easternmost port of entry. The folks at Puerto de Vita are very friendly and make the process quite simple, for which I'm quite grateful.
I'll be using wifi as it's available to keep everyone in touch, and also, you'll be able to follow my trip using the 'Where's Wally' feature on the Delorme InReach unit I carry.
To find my location, and where I've been, click on the 'Where's Wally' tab you see at the top of this page, just below the photo of my boat. Currently, as you can see, it's set to my last location at the end of the ICW Snowbird Rally, but that will be changing as of Saturday at about 0100 hours.
You can also keep up with my posts on Facebook, at Sailing and Cruising, and also Sailing and Cruising: Cuba, even while I'm in Cuba.
Using the Delorme InReach unit, I'll be able to post regular updates via satellite, so you'll be able to follow what's happening. Unfortunately, photos won't be possible unless I find internet, which is difficult in Cuba outside of a resort or major hotel. Even then, given the poor bandwidth, photos might not be possible.
It will be possible for you to email me via the Delorme, and I do hope to hear from you while I'm underway. I'll try to answer questions, but at 160 characters per message, it's gonna be a challenge to give a lot of detail.
For those wanting more information about cruising to and in Cuba, my FB page is the most up to date site for information about cruising in Cuba on the net. I actually have people who live aboard in Cuba posting to it, as well as people who are cruising there now, or who have very recently returned from cruising in Cuba. It doesn't get more up to date than that, so accept no substitutes!
I make a serious effort to keep the information current, and to give you the facts, not the rumours and incorrect scuttlebutt you'll find everywhere else. Check it out, if you're planning - or just dreaming - of cruising to Cuba, then you'll appreciate Sailing and Cruising: Cuba

(ps - posted while at anchor in Bimini, Bahamas, after an uneventful crossing :>)