Whooops! Well.....

anchored out in the Jumentos....

When last we left our intrepid sailor - oh, wait, that’s another blog!
My last post here a week ago, the plan was to leave the following day and then post to you - from Cuba.Things didn’t turn out that way, and I’m still in George Town, Bahamas. I’d tell you I’m now leaving tomorrow, but a) who would believe me now, and b) I don’t want to jinx myself.
The morning following that post, about 4 am, I woke up with what we can considerately call an unpleasant gastro-intestinal feeling. I’m going to avoid details for the squeamish and faint of heart, and myself, because it isn’t much fun to recall.
A word to the wise here unless you’re into scaring yourself silly: never google pain symptoms at 4:30 am. First of all, my symptoms could have been for any one of over 50 ailments, including appendicitis or kidney stones. All fatal.
By 5, I had convinced myself that seeing a doctor was the smart thing to do, since those two - appendicitis and kidney stones - are illnesses you don’t want to get in a place like the Jumentos, well south of the Exumas, or crossing over to Cuba. Heck, I wasn’t going anywhere feeling like I was, much less away from civilization - and medical care, such as it is here in George Town.
Seeing the doc on a small island doesn’t always mean you get to see the doctor. Typically, you get to see the nurse practitioner.
Nurse practitioners, in my experience, don’t leave me with a lot of confidence. I’m the sort of person who likes answers because then I can work on solutions. Give me a ‘fuzzy’ response and I’ll try to nail it down with questions. Great if you’re a journalist working on a story, but if you’re a patient trying to determine your life expectancy...
Naturally, if all the nurse has to work with is a few ounces of urine and your description of how you feel, you don’t get a lot of answers. The decision to sit tight for a few days while this sorted itself out was now final. No way was I going out and taking any chances.
I thought that this might offer an opportunity to catch up on some writing, but that wasn’t happening. The prescription I had against infections was knocking me out - I was napping mornings and afternoons for hours at a time. Thankfully, I had turned down the painkillers (prescription, not recreational) or I’d still be asleep.

On the serious side, when you’re cruising in areas off the beaten path, medical considerations have to be thought out in advance. To that end, I carry a fairly comprehensive first aid kit, the Marine Series 400 by Adventure Medical Kits. It’s good for wounds and breaks, has some basic meds, and is intended to support a victim while you transport to proper care.
However, there’s a lot more that can happen to you out there than just stepping on a spiny urchin - or sitting on one. Let me digress a moment with a story - a close friend who is a dive instructor told me one of his most pleasurable work days occurred when a 19 or 20-something hottie in a much too small bikini sat on a spiny urchin (how???) and required removal of the spines, said job falling to him as the senior instructor, there being no other trained medical staff on the island. Apparently it was slow, but very pleasant, work. End of digression.
A proper first aid kit should carry a variety of easily purchased medications, against some of the ailments we suffer. For the various GI problems and even simple upsets, you should have Tums or similar, an anti-diarreahal (yes it’s spelled correctly!), and a laxative on board. Basic stuff, yes, but they can turn the tide, if you’ll forgive the horrific pun, in a bad situation.
Some basic painkillers are also mandatory. I have both ASA and Acetaminophen with 15 mg Codeine, a product I can purchase OTC in Canada. They’ve stemmed some severe toothache pain over the years and I don’t travel without them.
In this instance, they were both a bad choice against the headache the antibiotic was giving me, because Codeine plugs you up, same as morphine. Fortunately, I had some straight Tylenol with me, and purchased some ASA for stores.
Along with these, you should carry some sort of easily purchased topical painkiller. These are usually sold as part of an antibiotic creme - which of course you should also have available.
I could go on for quite a while - and quite possibly should, because not everyone pays adequate attention to this topic. I feel an article in the works here...

Let me finish on this note: if you’re going cruising - and even if you aren’t - take a good first aid course, and CPR along with it. Any sailing school will be glad to set up the appropriate courses for you. CPR is not hard to learn, and can be a lifesaver. First aid can be used anywhere, at anytime, not just on your boat.
The instructors will be teaching from the foundation of injuries derived during water based activities, which is what you want. Bottom line is, there’s no point in having lots of bandages if you don’t know how to keep the victim alive long enough to use them.

 p.s. yes, I’m now feeling much better, thanks. Good to go, even! And, the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally is very close to being full. If you're considering joining us, don't hesitate too long, you'll miss out. For more details on this exciting event, running Oct. 20 to Dec. 15 from Deltaville VA to Miama FL, check our website, ICWally.com

Cuba - you got questions? We've got answers...

I received an email today from a friend about what's needed to cruise in Cuba, and it inspired the following blog post...which will be the last blog post here until I reach Cuba in a few days. You can follow my progress along the Cuban coast at Where's Wally?
I'll be posting regular short updates via my Delorme Inreach satellite tracker to my Facebook page about Cuba until I reach someplace where I can get back on the internet.
Here's what my friend Carlos had to ask about cruising in Cuba...

Hi Wally,

 My imagination has been “running” at high speed with this discussion of ours on Cuba.  I saw your video (sailing to Havana) last night on You Tube.  I hear that there are less than 100 usable slips in Hemingway Marina.   Most of the slips are in dis-repair..no water..no power per the websites I saw.  100 Slips isn’t that many for the Miami Crowd.  Over 60,000 boats in Florida….any decent 20 footer could make the trip on a nice day….Aside from Havana where should one go?   Varadero?

1)      Does my Raymarine GPS/Chartplotter need more charts?  Where can I buy charts for Cuba here in FTL?  How about a Cuban FLAG?

2)      Do I need a SSB Radio to do this trip? Or VHF sufficient.  In some countries only SSB is permissible.

3)      I don’t have a Mariner’s or Captain’s license…like most American boaters..is this an issue?

4)      Insurance—not sure if US Boat will cover me there.  Will need to check.  If not,  I hear that a Canadian and a German company sell insurance for Cuban waters.

5)      Medical Insurance for me and my crew.

6)      Harmony is in top condition—all maintenance has been done.  I did remove the Staysail—but we should be ok with the furling genoa and the main.   I don’t have any spare sails.    I wonder what spare parts for the engine I should bring?  Water pumps, belts, starter…..I wonder what would be a prudent “spare set.”  I can’t predict everything…what should I have on board?    I’ll top off with fuel and bring plenty of gas for the dinghy before going.  50 gallons of diesel should be more than enough…and 5 gallons for the dinghy.

7)      Are their pump outs at the marinas in Cuba…probably not but should not dump except way offshore…

8)      I read a lot about provisioning—How long will we be in Cuban waters?   A week?  10 days?  I hear fish, chicken, pork and veggies are easy to get….I would bring “other stuff”…canned stuff, booze, things for “trading” everyone suggests.   If the trip is for 10 days—I’ll provision for 20+ days. Just in case of bad weather..or the winds keep us from departing on time, etc.   Its not a long passage---the water supply on board 60 gallons is ample.   Good suggestion to bring some clean  “Jerry Cans” to bring water back in the dinghy if water isn’t available dockside.     

9)      Security—I hear that you really can’t leave your boat unattended. Security at the Marinas is a “joke”….what has been your experience?   Can we leave the boat locked up—and go into Town?  Taxi’s available?

10)   US Credit Cards are now usable in Cuba….but how much cash should we bring?

 My sister was just in Cuba and really enjoyed the music and food….She said that there are many “inconveniences” but nothing major.  If we’re staying aboard Harmony, we’ll be very comfortable…especially if we have power and water at the dock.  

All of these topics seem obvious to someone with your vast experience—but would be useful information for a novice like me to have before leaving. 

Here are my answers to Carlos...

For charts and a flag, contact Bluewater charts and books in Lauderdale. 

VHF is sufficient, especially along the north coast. SSB is always nice, but not needed.

No license, Captain or otherwise required, to cruise in Cuba

No US firm will cover your boat at this point. Lloyds of London is one option. This may change if you are traveling legally with a license for your boat - and since the situation is changing so rapidly, you need to check with your insurer on this before leaving.

You purchase medical insurance in Cuba, approximately $3.25/day/person US. Mandatory for all but Canadians, whose health insurance covers them while in Cuba.

Spares - the usual. Fan belt, impeller, filters. Fuel and water are easily had in Cuba, and are of good quality. 

No pumpouts. Best to void the tank at sea, yes. 

You have the right idea about provisioning. Also, bring adequate toilet paper, it's $3.50 a roll IF you can find it.

Security is good at the marinas, but I would lock up in Hemingway all the same, it's more open than most other marinas. Be more worried about other boaters, not the Cubans. It's against the law for a Cuban to board your boat, other than the officials, and they don't. Taxis, no problem.

Despite what some so called 'knowledgeable' people are telling you, US credit cards do NOT work in Cuba, not yet anyhow. Bring cash. Bring cash anyway, because ATMs are not that easy to find and often do not work. Mini-rant to follow...
(I really hate watching someone at a boat show give wrong information, especially when those in attendance paid $100 per head to listen, and I give the correct information for free. If you put on the show, at least have the courtesy to hire someone who knows what they are talking about - and yes, that means you, Trawlerfest and Passagemaker. We had this discussion last spring and you didn't like it, especially when the next day, the Wall Street Journal backed me up on this. Then your speaker got her information on bringing a dog into Cuba wrong also. Not impressed at all). End of mini-rant.

No, there are not a lot of usable slips at Hemingway, but the marina is slated for improvements, or so the rumour on the Malecon goes - but those in use do have water and power. However, power may only be 30 amps. Not sure about 50 or 100. The dockmaster will have an electrician set things up for you on arrival. The electrical setup is not as scary as it looks - or perhaps it is, I'm no electrician.

Varadero is nice, although I've not yet seen the new marina there, which is way outside of town. The old marina, Darsena, is nice but dated. It's also close to town, making it very convenient. 

That's it for this blog post folks. I have to get the boat ready for sea, and pick up some last minute items - not TP, got lots! Mas tardes, amigos y amigas!

Two cases wine, one case dog food, one case toilet paper...CHECK!

Huh? What's Moran babbling about now? 

Well, for those who've not gone to Cuba, the above is part of my provisioning list for the trip, because none of those three items is easily found in Cuba. Dog food, in fact, is not available at all to my knowledge and Aduana, the WonderPup®, would not be a happy gal if we ran out of kibble somewhere around Cienfuegos. 

The last time I saw TP for sale in Cuba, it was at Marina Hemingway, at $3.50 US a roll. That's some expensive sh$%t there! (sorry, I HAD to use that line...regular readers of my Sailing and Cruising Facebook group, known for top notch sailing advice and epic TP threads, will appreciate it).

TP - $3.50 a roll in Hemingway

So what else do you bring along to Cuba? Good question. 

Money, for one thing, since American credit and debit cards don't work. I know, you've been told all that has changed. Well, don't believe everything you read - cruising friends just returned from Cuba have advised me that what you're reading in the news - and hearing at some boat show seminars in fact from so-called knowledgeable people - is incorrect, despite the hype. Bring cash. Yanqui dollars work just fine, change them to pesos at the bank. American credit and debit cards do not yet work.

You'll also want to bring along things such as condiments, spices, soda...in fact, anything that isn't a staple, and a few things we think of as staples. Beef? Hard freeze your favourite steaks, because you're not likely to find beef. Same with hamburger. 

Dinner being delivered - fresh and fast!

Pork is easier, chicken (pollo) is easy, and local fisherman will bring fish (pesca) and lobster (langosta) to your boat at anchor to trade for t-shirts, old snorkeling gear and so on. They won't sell it for cash usually, because they have nothing to spend that cash on. There are no Walmarts in Cuba...damn few grocery stores either, at least as we understand them.

Vegetables aren't a problem either, just check out the local farmer's markets in the nearest town. The selection will be fresh and grown without fertilizers or pesticides - you'll appreciate the difference in taste from North American grown veggies.

Fresh from the owner's own garden....

So what else do you need? 

You should already have on board spares for the mechanical items that usually give trouble: fan belt, impeller, oil filters, fuel filters and so on. These will be difficult, or impossible, to get in Cuba. And you can't just call out to have one shipped in either.

One friend, a Canadian, had the water pump go on his trawler while in Moro, at the west end of Cuba. It took three weeks to get one in. First, he had to order it from the US, via his satphone. It then had to be re-ordered out of Canada, shipped via DHL through Europe, it somehow at one point ended up in Africa (no, I don't know how or why), finally landing in Havana. It took a $350 car rental for the 300 mile round trip, half a day spent screwing around at the airport to get it cleared through customs, and a healthy 'tip' for the customs agent.

Imagine how stupid you would feel doing all of that for a $20 impeller.

I'm making Cuba sound very difficult, but in reality, it isn't. You do have to have a very different mindset however, to enjoy a Cuban cruise. Otherwise, it can frustrate you beyond belief.

In Hemingway, when you are ready to plug in, the dockmaster will have an electrician set up the pedestal for you, as in rewire it. 

Guarda officer being rowed out to my boat...

You have to clear in, and out, of every stop, with two Guarda Frontera officers boarding your boat for the paperwork and cursory search of your boat. Learn to enjoy it. They don't want to do it either, and they're respectful and pleasant about the job. Everything takes longer, is more difficult. Sometimes things are done on the sly, because that’s the only way they CAN be done due to bureaucracy and rules. Cubans are masters at McGyvering things - witness those old Chevs and Fords running on Russian tractor diesels. 

And through it all, the Cubans just keep smiling, being their wonderfully friendly selves.

Nothing is the same, in other words, and that alone is reason to cruise Cuba, before the developers and marina builders get their mitts into Cuba, and turn it into Fort Lauderdale south. Already, they're talking about a $150 million redevelopment of Hemingway, funded by the Chinese, and building something upwards of a dozen marinas, with golf courses, on the north coast. You’ll hardly know you’ve even left the US in these places.

I won't give my opinion on this idiocy, but those who read me regularly know what I think of this 'pave paradise, put up a parking lot' mentality. This isn’t what cruising is all about. If that’s what you want, stay at a marina in Miami - you’ll hear more Spanish spoken there anyhow.

The next post you see will be sent via my Delorme Inreach tracker, and you can follow my progress at Where's Wally? As I cruise the south coast of Cuba, I'll try to answer your questions, but bear in mind, net access can be a challenge there.

A quick reminder for those interested in cruising the ICW with my rally group this fall, Sail to the Sun ICW Rally.  It's going to be a great time and space is filling very fast - we're already 50% full in only five days, so if you're interested, don't hesitate! This is going to be an even better time than last year's rally.

Mas tardes, amigos y amigas. See you in Cuba! Vaminos!

Sail to the Sun ICW Rally

We have liftoff! Oh my gosh, do we have liftoff, the space shuttles should do as well.
Just a few days ago I announced that I would be hosting the "Sail to the Sun ICW Rally" this fall, and the response has been astounding. We had people signing up within hours of the announcement, not wanting to miss out on their spot in what will be the best and most enjoyable ICW rally of them all. And last year's was pretty darn good, so that says a lot. We had a great time, as you can see from comments on my website, ICWally.
I want to thank, before I go any further, the folks who were on the original ICW rally with me last year, for all of your best wishes on this venture. All of you are aware of how difficult this decision has been for me, and it was with your encouragement - and because of your encouragement and support - that I decided to launch this new rally. Your hope that others could experience the joys of a trip south on the ICW, such as we had together, has very much inspired me.

So just what will this rally offer to its members? First of all, safety. While the ICW is in and of itself a very safe route to travel, it has its challenges. There is constant shoaling, strong currents, and some confusing inlets to pass through. After 25 transits, I'm aware of all of these and well able to assist new cruisers through them safely.
On top of that, we'll have even more navigational assistance from some of the most knowledgeable people around on the ICW - the staff at our sponsor, Waterway Guide. They will be monitoring the situation ahead of us on a daily basis, letting us know of any new and unexpected problems that might crop up.
Then - there's comfort. Part of being comfortable on a trip such as this is knowing you're being well taken care of. To that end, our itinerary is planned so that no day is too long, or too challenging for even the newest cruiser. Our anchorages are chosen so that they are protected, and with good holding. Marinas are chosen for their convenience to cruisers, and for their amenities.
This, by the way, will be Waterway Guide's doing, as they have over 60 years experience dealing with the marinas on the ICW. They know the route, they know the people, and they'll be taking good care of all of us. And, you can expect some amazing deals for dockage too!
Then there's fun. People going south on the ICW are often a long way from family and friends and the life they used to have. The Sail to the Sun ICW Rally provides a ready made social group of fellow cruisers - people with similar goals and dreams, adventurous souls like you heading out on your cruising dream.
Sailing and traveling together, you'll get to know one another better than even your closest friends back home, as you share gorgeous sunsets, beautiful sailing days, helping one another into the dock, sharing a libation at sundown, potlucks on the beach...

These are people who will become your friends for life...people you'll look forward to seeing in your next anchorage, sharing still more good times with. In the end, that's what cruising is all about - lots of great sunsets, and wonderful new friends.

If you want more information on the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally, contact me via ICW.Wally@gmail.com, or check out my website at ICWally.com and request a brochure while you are there.
I look forward to getting to know you on our way south this fall.

Sail to the Sun this Winter with ICWally.com

I am extremely pleased, and very, very proud, to announce the 2015 Sail to the Sun ICW Rally. This will be an amazing event, and I hope you will join in with us, or follow us online if you're not ready yet to head south.

Last year, as many of you already know, I led the hugely successful ICW Snowbird Rally. Eighteen boats, seven dogs, three kids and a whole bunch of fun people headed south from Hampton VA, ending up in Miami FL seven weeks later. We had a great time.
This time around, we're going to do it even better.
This year's Sail to the Sun Rally will start a little sooner, so we can avoid some of the cold weather we experienced last year. That polar vortex chasing us south was cold!
At the Annapolis Boat Show, there will be a meet and greet for dinner and drinks at a local restaurant close by the show. A group of us did this last year and as those who were there can tell you, it was a great time.
The kickoff to the Sail to the Sun ICW Rally will be in Deltaville VA, one day's short sail out of Hampton VA. While there, the publisher of Waterway Guides, Jeff Jones, will host a reception and seminar, with time spent learning about the ICW from professionals and veterans of the route, and getting to know our fellow rally participants. This will be a very special event, I can tell you now, with lots of great people and information.
Then we head for Norfolk and the Dismal Swamp, the first stops on our way south, all the way to Miami.
There are some fun events planned already, and more in the works. Right out of the Albermarle, a lovely dinner and evening's entertainment, will be hosted by River Dunes Marina in NC.  This marina has been named one of the top 25 marinas in North America - here's the article for you!
While at River Dunes, we'll be able to visit Oriental NC, a popular spot on the ICW - without having to fight the boater traffic and marina congestion that is typical of this time of year, especially in a small harbour such as Oriental.

And that's just one of the events you'll enjoy on your way south. In later posts, I'll fill you in on even more of the great events we have planned for you. There will be quite a few.
There will also be evenings out for dinner at various stops along the way, potlucks on shore, and evenings shared with your new friends on board one another's boats.
Our major sponsor, Waterway Guides, will be providing an amazing swag bag for all participants - I won't tell you what will be in it, but it alone is worth the price of admission to this rally.
They've got a few other goodies lined up too, but I'm not going to spoil the surprise just yet. And I've got a couple of rabbits I plan to pull out of a hat for the group also. Stay tuned.
There will be significant discounts on dockage for rally members, and 10% or better savings on fuel costs at marinas on your trip south. That adds up to a lot of money you can save to spend on rum and fun in the islands.
Most importantly, you'll be getting professional advice and guidance on how to transit the ICW safely, comfortably and enjoyably. That means regular briefings on the more difficult areas and how to safely transit them, as well as on the spot guidance via VHF, text and celphone.
Our goal is not only to get you south safely and comfortably, but to help you learn what the cruising lifestyle is all about. If you need help, you'll get help, whether it's in figuring out how to provision, or setting an anchor, or docking practice. When we get the opportunity, further south, we'll do an offshore day to give you a taste of it in a group with others, so that when you are ready to head offshore, it won't all be a surprise to you.
Best of all, you'll be in the company of new and wonderful cruising friends, people whom you will keep in touch with for years to come, cruise with, share adventures with...

Dismal Swamp Canal

at the Palace Saloon, Fernandina Beach, FL

It just doesn't get better than this. For more information - AND a free ebook on ICW Tips and Techniques as well, go to ICWally.com. That's right - IC Wally. And don't forget to follow Aduana and I on our Delorme Satellite Tracker as we head off to Cuba, at Where's Wally?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
p.s. I'd especially like to welcome Steve and Barb Kurtzman, and Dave Pollock and Brenda Libby, who sailed with me on the 2014 Rally, to the 2015 Sail to the Sun Rally.
Thanks guys, for your trust and faith in joining up with me again for another great adventure. That's very special to me.

Awards Ceremony, Coconut Grove, Miami

Akula, on the Pungo River

Next Up - CUBA!

Weather permitting that is! The last few days in George Town Bahamas have been miserable, and so I've been stuck here waiting out squalls, thunderstorms and general mayhem out of the sky.
The predictions, however, have been much worse. Worse still, none of them agree with one another, and I check several on a daily basis: Passageweather, Windfinder, Predict Wind, even Chris Parker!

Ok, I know some of you are saying - Moran, that cheapskate sailor? (I know, that's redundant.) He has a subscription to Parker? When hell freezes over!

Relax, ol' Beelzebub ain't buying iceskates just yet - but I'm going to tell you a not well known fact here. You can listen to Chris' broadcast online, for free, at this site here.  Here is Chris' website, and here is the broadcast schedule along with other relevant information on Chris' services. Just another friendly tip from LiveBloggin'...

The plan now is to start into the Jumentos early next week, continue on to Ragged Island at the bottom, have a visit with Percy Wilson,

who owns the pub there with the DC-3 on top of it, then head over.
The last time I chatted with Percy, he was attempting to salvage a wooden boat that started to sink while transporting 114 Haitian refugees.
Imagine crossing that piece of ocean in THIS boat you see behind Percy. It's about 40 feet, no engine, no head, no deck of any sort. 

The closeup of the interior says 'desperation' in a way that nothing else can.

Leaving Ragged Island, it's a 62 nm trip across to Puerto de Vita, where I'll meet up again with marina manager Tina. She is a former schoolteacher, and began working for the marina because it is much better money due to the tips they receive from boaters.
Tina has been a huge help to the many boaters who have come through Vita, with tips, hints and suggestions.
From there, it's 130 miles east to the cape, then around to the south coast. Let the adventure begin....uh, after this rain and contrary winds all quit that is.

Stay tuned to LiveBloggin' and Sailfeed, as I'll be posting regularly from Cuba using my Delorme Tracker. You can also follow the adventure via Facebook, at Sailing and Cruising, where I'll be making short regular posts on what's happening.
And, don't forget that you can follow my progress here on LiveBloggin' with the 'Where's Wally' feature, this is the link - and yes, the link is now working properly for those who had a problem previously.
For those contemplating their first trip south, or their next one - or for those wanting to relive the memories or assist new cruisers - I've started a new Sailing and Cruising Facebook page, Sailing and Cruising: ICW
This page will feature lots of great tips, techniques and information to make your ICW cruise - the first one or the next one - easier, safer and more fun. After 25 trips on the ICW, I have a few ideas to share, and so will others.
It will also provide snowbirds with an opportunity to make friends before heading out, to join up and socialize with other cruisers heading south, and, in essence, create a sense of community for all. It is already fulfilling those goals as people get to know of others heading south and plans are already being made.
Keep in mind also, if you are heading south and need advice or assistance, you can contact me via the 'Contact' form on this page - the one that keeps pushing up into your view from the bottom right - or you can contact me via Facebook.
Look forward to hearing from you, and also to welcoming you to Sailing and Cruising: ICW.

Heading East from Bimini, and a New Crewmember

It's hard not to love these islands. Coming from the dirty brown water of the US east coast, your boat is suddenly immersed in a clear turquoise liquid. As you look down at starfish and other marine life, you just marvel at all that you've been missing on your journey south. The arrival alone is a suitable reward for all of your effort in coming south. 

This post will be mostly photos of this trip from Bimini to Georgetown - I'm not feeling particularly literate today, and no, rum was not involved!
Enjoy....

On my way across the Banks, I had a new crewmember come aboard - a lovely small bird who spent a considerable amount of time with us exploring the boat...then left after several hours. Great fun watching this little guy. Aduana was quite concerned at the intrusion, but settled down after a while.








No trip to the Bahamas is complete without a $26 hamburger from MacDuffs, on Norman Cay. Yes, you read that right - $26. Beer is only $7...both plus tax!

Yep! $26 for a burger...

View on the beach at Normans Cay - fortunately, it's free!

Sunset at Warderick Wells

Stopped at Exuma Land and Sea Park, otherwise known as Warderick Wells - beautiful here, very natural, what the Bahamas used to be before so much of it was paved over and turned into a parking lot...
















Next stop, Staniel Cay...Aduana was fascinated by the nurse sharks at the marina...there are over a dozen of them, attracted by people tossing food into the water around the dock. It's quite the attraction...

Let me leave you with a photo that, for me, expresses the real Bahamas, the Bahamas I came to find...this too was on Staniel Cay in front of the home of a local schoolteacher.